Spongata di Natale is a round, flat festive Italian cake that has ties to various regions and towns in Italy and is thought to have been brought to Italy by the Jews, though others believe that it is a Roman dish that survived through the Middle Ages. The first recorded written recipe dates back to the end of the 14th century and required three days to complete and we know that its production was even regulated by the famous ducal family of Este by a special decree. While the exact origins are uncertain, we do know that it is a delicious treat, perfect for some rich sweetness during the colder months. A thin, pie-like cake that consists of a crunchy pastry coating and sweet filling made of spices, nuts, honey and dried fruit, it is actually not dissimilar to that more familiar Christmas food staple; the mince pie.
Spongata is made in and around Reggio Emilia and Brescello; in the provinces that border Parma, including Busseto, Corniglio, Berceto, Cassio, Piacenza and Modena; and in Pontremoli, in the Valle del Magra, and in Sarzana. However, there is a tradition of the treat in one part of Tuscany: Lunigiana. This makes sense as Lunigiana is located right on the border with Emilia Romagna and its neighbours have always influenced the city's accent and its cuisine.
In the past, it was made during the winter, beginning on All Saint’s Day, or November 2nd. Today it is available year round but it really is perfectly suited to winter weather and curling up with something hot to drink, a slice and a good book. Just find a vacation rental in Massa and pay a visit to Lungiana to do just that in Tuscany on a much-needed getaway this winter. If you can't wait, try out this recipe and make your own version while you plan your trip.
Ingredients:
For the pastry:
250g of flour
100g of butter
75g of sugar
3 tablespoons of warm white wine
1 egg yolk
The zest of 1 lemon
For the filling:
3 tablespoons of fig jam
3 tablespoons of apple jam
1 tablespoon of orange marmalade
10 almonds, roughly chopped
3 dried figs, chopped
2 tablespoons of pine nuts
1 pinch of cinnamon
3 cloves, ground
For the sugar glaze
3 tablespoons of sugar
1 tablespoon of water
Method:
1. Beat the sugar, egg yolk, butter and lemon until creamy and then add the flour and white wine. Knead the ingredients until you have a smooth dough. Flour a counter, divide the dough into two parts and roll it out.
2. Grease a round mould and line the bottom with a pastry disc.
3. Spread jam and marmalade out on the pastry and then add almonds, figs, pine nuts and spices.
4. Cover the cake with another pastry disc, cut the excess dough and seal the edges. Preheat an oven to 180°C.
5. Dissolve the sugar in a cup of water and brush the surface of the cake with the mixture before baking.
6. Bake for about 30 minutes until the edges are golden brown and the sugar on the surface is shiny and cracked.
7. Let it cool, slice it up and sit down with that hot drink and good book.